Mo's Wine & Spirits

How can you not be jealous – tasting wine for a living? How do you get that job? Seems easy – tilt glass, taste, swallow…repeat. Or do you really need to be able to taste all those flavors you read in the wine reviews: “eucalyptus”…“burnished leather”…“chunky black berry”…? Well, if you want to taste wine more discriminately, you need to step up and put on your own tasting. The “tools of the trade” are all there, you just need to develop them. Practice will help develop your skills, enhancing your enjoyment and appreciation for wine.

But, you say, you already enjoy wine…why bother? Look at it this way: you loan a friend your favorite book, one that you found full of drama and life, nuance and style. They return it and say “it was a good story”, not understanding any deeper elements that you appreciated. They enjoyed it, but didn’t look beyond the narrative. Like a great book, wine also presents different levels of appreciation and distinctions. It’s OK to simply enjoy a good glass of wine but if you want more, dig a little deeper yourself. Here are some basic tasting steps:

1. Color: Look at the wine in the glass against a white background. Good clarity? Cloudy? Deep rich color? Washed out? The color and clarity of a wine are clues to the varietal, the wine’s age, storage history, and even how it was produced.
2. Swirl: Swirl the wine in your glass, introducing more oxygen to the wine, bringing out flavors and subtleties. Only pour a couple ounces for tasting so you can swirl.
3. Smell: Aroma is a very important single element of tasting, as your taste abilities largely depends on your olfactory sensibilities. Be sure to put your nose right in to the glass, and remember step #2.
4. Taste: Swish the wine in your mouth so it coats all the areas of your tongue. Don’t be afraid to look a little funny when tasting! Make notes on flavors and nuances…impressions come and go quickly, so get them written down.
5. Savor: This final look at the wine is about reflection…what reactions or feelings does the wine generate? Is it complex or simple – harsh or inviting? Well balanced, too fruity or too dry? It’s important to document.

Bottom line: The way to gain wine expertise is to taste. You need experience – stretch your legs and dig deeper to gain a greater understanding and appreciation of wine.

Mr L. made wine. There was a grape arbor on his property in the neighborhood.  When we were teenagers his grandson asked us to help him pick the grapes. He offered to pay us when we were done. The bluish black skin was tart, but the flesh inside was green and sweet. We ate almost as many as we picked. Thanking us in Italian for our hard work he handed us a half gallon milk jug filled with his cool, fruity homemade wine. It tasted like the color purple. We convinced Mr L. to sell his wine to us for awhile for fifty cents a half gallon. Our parents couldn’t figure out what kind of candy would stain not only our mouths but sometimes our clothes purple as well.

Today’s homemade winemaking has reached new heights. The Crushpad facility started in 2004 by Michael Brill. Brill enjoyed making wine in his home garage in California when neighbors and friends would stop by to help. He took this idea and turned it into a 30.000 square foot warehouse  winery. This year his customers will make 40-50,000 cases of wine. Grapes are sourced from 50 different vineyards. Barrels come from all over the world. The no frills experience will cost you between 5000-10,000 dollars for around 25 cases or 300 bottles out of one barrel of wine. Companies sign up for fun, or you can even join one of the 80 winemaking groups already in existence. Quality is the watchword at Crushpad. Webcam access is encouraged to document your winemaking experience. Over 2000 people from 35 states and 8 countries are involved at Crushpad. Crushpad Japan opened in August ‘07. There is a big demand for all things American, wine being no exception. Crushpad will have web streaming of harvests for the Japanese customers. There will be a full time winemaker at the facility.

Closer to the Connecticut home front- City Winery is planning to open their doors any minute under the leadership of Michael Dorf. Dorf has been involved in New York arts and business for many years. He got involved with wine after making a barrel at Ridge Vineyards. David Lecomte of Baron Herzog and Chapoutier fame will be the head winemaker to assist those who sign up for barrel ownership in making their first vintage. Grapes will be sourced from California, Washington. Oregon and NY. Memberships will run from 5000-10,000+++ depending on add ons. Check out their website.

City Winery will have a public space that includes a wine bar for non members to use also. Classes will be offered. Food will be offered as well as entertainment.( Dorf used to own the Knitting Factory) You can have your party next to the fermentation tanks. You can even pay to have your wine custom crafted and put your label on it and give it away as gifts! The wine cannot be sold-only traded and shared. Only in New York.

Sounds like fun, doesn’t it? To be able to find another dimension of myself through making wine. Hey, I could hang out at the winery all day,  make wine and meet everyone,  take  the classes and taste all the wines made by my fellow oenophiles…express yourself…

Cheers, Sharon

Enjoying good times with family and friends at a restaurant with a special bottle of wine is a favorite practice with wine-lovers. However this habit is not allowed in many establishments. Policy varies from restaurant to restaurant, as will the associated charge known as the Corkage Fee.

Don’t begrudge the restaurant the Corkage fee – it covers the cost of glasses as well as the service of opening and serving the wine. And truth be told, it recoups a little lost wine revenue for the restaurant. From their perspective, a customer bringing in wine might be compared to bringing in their own silverware or favorite steak sauce. Restaurants work hard to provide excellent menus and wine lists for their patrons, and they rely on income from both; whereas food can be marked up 40 percent or more on average in a casual or fine dining establishment, wines can be marked up as much as 10 times more. These are serious financial considerations for the restaurant.

Because this is not a cut and dried issue, here are some basic rules you should respect when bringing in a special bottle of your own:

• The wine should be special, something unlikely to be on that restaurant’s wine list. It might be from a boutique winery or a bottle only available at a winery. Perhaps a quality wine that has been aging in your wine cellar.
• Always call ahead and ask the restaurant about their corkage fee and policy. Fees will vary, and while most are reasonable, some charges are outrageous. The norm is $15 to $20 for a corkage fee. (Expect to pay a higher fee for a magnum of wine).
• If you have a wine that requires chilling, bring the wine chilled in an insulated tote bag.
• For a very special bottle, consider offering the sommelier or manager a taste as well.

Bringing in your own special bottle it is not embraced universally by the restaurant industry, but it should be an acceptable practice when these basic rules are followed. Look for restaurants that have “no Corkage fee night”, usually a slower night at the restaurant. Also, some managers will waive the fee if you purchase additional wine from the restaurant. Patronize restaurants that will meet you half way, and bring in that special bottle for that special celebration!

Right now I could be signing up for the mailing list of high end or just hard to get wines instead of writing this blog. They don’t have to be high end wines, just wines high in demand that have achieved the so called “cult wine” status in the wine world. You might have read about them online or in a magazine article. Once in awhile if you are lucky, some incarnation of the wines trickle into retail. The only way to bring one of these trophies into your possession is to either have a very generous friend or sign up for a winery mailing list.

Once you sign up the fun begins.  The wait for the winery to contact you with your order form. You might want to get comfortable. Wait times can depend on the winery and how much wine they produce. Bryant Family Vineyards has a mailing list wait of 7000 people- to get onto the mailing list! Harlan has a three year wait.  Screaming Eagle has a faq web page about their mailing list. Sine Qua Non’s mailing list has been closed for quite some time. Seems Mr. Krankl doesn’t make the same wine twice, heightening the allure and mystique of his wines. Even with 3500 cases produced,  Sine’s mailing list wait is three times that in requests.

The wait is over! You can buy wine! Don’t forget to reply in a timely fashion. You also may be subject to bundling. You really want to buy wine “A” but now are asked  to buy wine “B and C” for a premium as well.. Remember, you wanted to be on the mailing list. Most (cult) wine collectors say it’s worth the price of admission. Then there are the few who drop off the list when the skyrocketing costs become unbearable. I can almost hear the tears of joy when another lucky oenophile opens their (e) mail gets their day in the sun!

To make matters worse there are more wineries that are joining the ranks of the elusive and exclusive cult wineries. There are fairly new wineries that have low case production( 500 or less) and are handcrafting exceptional wines by all standards. Robert Parker has bestowed his blessings and the public now wants a taste. The trouble is a few have already closed their mailing list. Scarecrow, Sloan and Ovid already have a mailing list wait. Why? Why not. “You can’t have a cult wine that’s available at Costco.”  A new winemaker shared his sentiment about mailing list only distribution. He also chooses select boutique wine shops that he allows to show his wines.

My fantasy cellar would contain all wines wonderful. I would top every winery mailing list that I choose. Harlan., Bryant Family, Screaming Eagle and Ovid- You could be, you should be …if my fantasy also included the winning Powerball ticket!

Cheers, Sharon

Today, society craves to be green. To help curb our cravings, we’ve been introduced to hybrid cars, organic produce, energy-efficient lifestyles and solar power. The next step to protecting the Earth may be organic wines.

So what exactly makes a wine eco-friendly, organic or green?

The overall concept is that wines are made naturally with no chemicals, in a biologically sustainable way. Organic wines come from organic grapes — fruit grown without chemical fertilizers or pesticides. Each country has its own laws and rules regarding what can be labeled as “organic,” so standards vary.

Today, organic wines are now produced all around the world, from the United States and Europe to the southern hemisphere. In fact, a growing number of producers practice some form of natural grape growing and winemaking because they believe these methods make better wine.

According to an article in The Daily Green, here is a simple guide to what different green wine labels mean:

• “100% Organic.” You guessed it — the wine is made from 100% organically grown ingredients. The wine also was monitored throughout its entire production process. The bottle bears the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) organic seal (the certifying agency must be listed). No sulfites are added, though it can contain naturally occurring sulfites (or sulfur dioxide, an antimicrobial substance).
• “Organic.” Surprise — it’s not totally organic. The wine has 95% organically grown ingredients (the other 5% must not be available organically). On the label, you’ll see the USDA organic symbol. Again the certifying agency must be listed. No sulfites are added, though the wine can contain naturally occurring sulfites.
• “Made with Organic Grapes” or “Made with Organic Ingredients.” The wine contains at least 70% organic ingredients. Sulfites can be added, but it may not beyond 100 parts per million. The wine can’t bear the USDA organic seal.
• “Biodynamic.” The wine is 100% organic, plus the grower has gone beyond to try to bring the farming process more closely in tune with nature. For instance, wine growers may make their own compost and/or watch the stars and planets to time what they do. The concept of biodynamic farming originated from the early Twentieth Century Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner.

To find out more about organic wines, visit the Organic Wine Journal’s website.

Ric Forman. You might be more familiar with the wines he created than the man who made them. Sterling Vineyards, Newton Vineyard and Forman Vineyard all had or have Ric Forman crafting wines of beauty and finesse. David Abreau uses Forman’s expertise to make his wines. Forman  helped Jess Jackson out with the blend for the little wine known as Kendall Jackson Chardonnay.

Ric Forman was fermenting and distilling local cherries and blackberries when he was fifteen years old. Chemistry is his first love. UC Davis would later welcome him as a graduate student to study food and science.

Peter Newton hired a young Forman to help him develop Sterling Vineyards. 1968-1978 was a period of major growth and transition for the wine industry in  California. Forman was fascinated with French winemaking techniques and traveled to Burgundy and Bordeaux. Christian Moueix invited Forman to come visit him in France to observe winemaking firsthand.  The two had been classmates together at Davis. The shared information would also help Forman on his search to improve California’s winemaking techniques.

Louis Martini was the first to plant and bottle Merlot in the late 1960’s. Cabernet was the undisputed king and grape varietal of choice. Sterling Vineyard with Foreman at the helm was the second winery to present a Merlot to the public. Forman believed Merlot could be bottled alone or blended with other varietals as in Bordeaux. Sterling made some outstanding Merlot through the 70’s. Forman talked to his friend Dan Duckhorn. Together they headed to Bordeaux. What happened next is another blog.

Newton Vineyard was a challenge from the beginning. Newton and Forman’s partnership was difficult at best. Newton Winery became known for their Merlot and Chardonnay. The unfiltered Chardonnay was highly sought after as the partnership finally came to an end.

Ric Forman is one of the pioneers of barrel fermented Chardonnay. Chardonnay was fermented in large stainless steel tanks before being bottled. Forman wanted to make a Chardonnay with finesse and style. Big, buttery, sweet Chardonnay is not what Forman wanted to come out of his barrels.  He experimented with many different types of cooperage, not afraid to make a mistake or twenty. The thin staves of the Bordeaux barrels were customized with wider hoops to take in account the humidity of the California caves. Barrels were laid out side by side in the caves, not stacked on top of each other. He learned or created more technical winemaking jargon which I will spare you. We can be grateful Forman cut no corners.

I had a bottle of Forman Chateau la Grande Roche Cabernet the other night. I had forgotten how handsome California Cabernet can be. Forman usually doesn’t drink his own wine. He would become critical and nervous. Keeps about 15 or 20 cases of every vintage for business reasons.  He did however, make this label for fun, so he would have something to drink. He likes to use dynamite. As long as he’s happy he’ll continue to make us wine. Dynamite..before or after dinner ?

Cheers, Sharon

Many times when we think of American protests and riots, we assume that they are socio-economic or politically-driven. That would make sense, right? We all remember the history lessons on the Boston Tea Party, sparked by “taxation without representation.” Or perhaps, the protests and riots that frequently occurred during the Civil Rights movement and the Vietnam era.

But, rioting over… wine? That’s right.

This summer, violent riots have taken place in southern France. On June 26, the streets of Montpellier erupted chaotically with 4,000 rioting winemakers. Although the demonstrations started out peacefully, the situation escalated when protesting vintners began tossing cocktails. Following that, press reports state that protesters burned police cars, vandalized supermarkets and broke courthouse windows in a rage over high fuel costs and falling prices of their wine.

Police used tear gas to break up the crowd.

Despite reform plans made by both the European Union and the French government, millions of winemakers continue to suffer economically due to the shrinking consumption of wine in France.

According to the article in Wine Spectator, ninety-nine percent of the region’s vintners have been hit hard by the decreasing value of the area’s wines and the rising cost of production, especially the price of gasoline, in recent years. The average price of Merlot has dropped from the equivalent of 75 cents a bottle in July 2001 to just 60 cents a bottle last November.

Wine growers are asking the government to come up with a plan to help the region since 98 percent of the 15,000 vineyards there have been “crippled financially,” according to Philippe Vergnès, president of a wine growers’ syndicate.

Since the riots, the French government has listened. They announced that they will provide up to $3 million in financial aid. The money will be used for emergency measures to help the winegrowers hit hardest by the industry crisis. There will also be several new amendments introduced to France’s senate in the next few months which would require wine merchants to make a down payment of 15 percent within a shorter period of time.

Imagine opening any bottle of wine and having the ultimate drinking experience. Total sensory enjoyment. The winemaker’s craft will be realized to the full potential. How about reducing or even eliminating  those pesky headaches possibly caused by red wine? But wait! In just minutes you can also improve the flavor of your coffee, water, beer and spirits as well!  A secret mix of no less than 11 semi precious gems along with other earth elements that are set in clear epoxy.  Our Catania Wine Enhancer is 4 1/2″ in diameter and 3/4″ high and encased in stainless steel. Resonant sound waves and earth elements will work together to make young and any wines approachable within minutes.

Robert Catania is a graduate of the Culinary Institute in Hyde Park, NY. Dr Masura Emoto is a Japanese research scientist. Emoto discovered that sound frequencies can heal and affect water. Catania studied Emoto’s research and applied the idea that energy fields make liquids better for the body to his Catania Wine Enhancer. The Enhancer claims to make our beloved wine safer and even more appealing to drink! All we needed now was someone to try the darn thing.

A test couple who is the  core of  Mo’s inner sanctum volunteered. I’ll call them Priscilla and Elvis. Priscilla is a no nonsense business woman. No amount of Enhancer hype would sway her logical mind even in a blind trial. Elvis is a professional businessman and an oenophile. His  exceptional palate world be needed for this experiment. The couple took the Enhancer and  selected the Anderson’s Conn Valley 2005 Right Bank for the trial.

Red and I waited for the phone to ring at Mo’s. What would Priscilla and Elvis think of the Enhancer? Why would you want to change the natural order of the wine world? Many questions were volleyed between us. Finally the call we were waiting for. The surprise in Elvis’ voice was evident as he gave us the results of the trial.( the Enhancer gives you specific instructions with time guidelines to not over enhance your wine) Both Priscilla and Elvis could taste a difference in the enhanced and un-enhanced wine in the 6-8 minutes using the Enhancer. The wine had gone through a transformation of sorts, smoother, less tannins making it more approachable. Priscilla had tasted the two samples blind with Elvis as the control.

The Wine Enhancer sits on the desk in the box that it came in. We haven’t spoken much of the Enhancer other than making a few jokes about trying it on a weary back or knee. I own a wine enhancer, It’s  the area of my basement I made into a wine cellar. You can call me Scully if you want to. I’ll put on some Jimi and wait for my wine to enhance the old fashioned way. As the winemakers intended their wine to be…

Cheers, Sharon

Let’s face it; going green is as good as gold these days. As earth-friendly products come into existence, they are creating a lower impact on the environment as well as cutting costs for those who use them. With the aggressive movement towards more eco-friendly production processes, and even construction methods, most opportunities to use a more environmentally friendly alternative are being heavily investigated.

For Sullivan Vineyards in St. Helena, CA, their choice to go green came when they decided it was time to replace the roof of their winery. After investigating their options, they decided that a roofing company called Cravea produced just what they needed. Cravea makes a tile, made entirely from earth, called Pro Shake, and the benefits of this new material are pretty far reaching. The Pro Shake tile weighs significantly less than standard roofing materials, so less wood is needed to support the roof from within the winery. This was especially important for Sullivan considering that they needed 3,500 square feet of roof to be done. The tile will also keep the winery a lot cooler than a standard roof would, thus reducing their energy costs that would normally be higher with a constant effort to maintain a controlled temperature inside. Since the tiles are made of earth, their longevity is incredible. They will continue to harden as they get older and Cravea estimates that the roof will not need to be replaced for about another century. A standard shingle roof would last, on average, roughly twenty years, and would cost more to install and allow more heat into the winery.

Sullivan is the first winery to use this new roofing material, but having seen its obvious advantages, both in cost reduction and the lower impact on the environment, it would not be surprising to see more wineries follow suit in years to come.