Mo's Wine & Spirits

Image Courtesy of Tequilasource.com

“Bring on the tequila oh
On fire on tequila oh..”
(Alanis Morissette)

Singers croon about it. Party revelers guzzle it. Interesting liaisons and wild stories abound because of it! This ‘fire-in-a-bottle, actually North America’s first distilled and commercially produced spirit, has taken this country by storm, rising to superstar status in the western world. It boasts a rich history, dating back to the early 16^th century when the Spanish Conquistadors arrived in Mexico near the town of Tequila, northwest of Guadalajara. The Spaniards imparted their knowledge of the distillation process to the Mexicans, who in turn applied this to the fermentation and distillation of the sugars in their beloved blue agave plant. This unique-tasting drink went into mass production in 1600, at the first local factory in the state of Jalisco.

The blue agave plant, grown in the rich, volcanic soil of the Mexican highlands (los altos) since the dawn of ancient Aztec civilization, takes 8 to 10 years to reach full maturity. It is lovingly harvested by local farmers, Jimadores, who painstakingly cut the plant from the ground, removing hundreds of leaves which protect it - a process that remains mostly manual. It is the piña (center) of the plant that is actually used for tequila. Given the lengthy growth cycle, it can take anywhere from 8-20 years to make a bottle of tequila. That’s why it’s critical to note that quality tequila will always bear the words “100% Agave” on the label.

The kind of tequila, whether Blanco (no aging) Reposado (middle aged) or Añejos (aged) - is always a matter of taste. Although the trend is to consume shots of tequila or mix it in cocktails like margaritas, the discerning tequila drinker is known to drink it like a brandy - neat and slowly, savoring every sip. Salud!

Remember the saying “an apple a day keeps the doctor away?” Well, that’s how many of those of British extract feel about their evening glass of “G&T” (Gin and Tonic). In fact, many Britons believe the late Queen Mother’s longevity was attributed to daily doses of her tipple of choice - gin!

Image Courtesy of Wikipedia.com

The history of gin production dates back to early 17^th century Holland, where it was produced as a medicine for stomach, gallbladder and gout ailments. The Dutch began to flavor the spirit with juniper, improving its taste considerably.

During the Thirty Years’ War, British Troops were given plenty of “Dutch Courage” so that they could warm up during the long, cold and damp days. They became so fond of the libation that they brought it home to England, where it became wildly popular - especially with the working class. Soon widespread abuse of gin became cause for alarm. “Gin Madness” spread through the streets of London and, in the early 18^th century, there was a series of unsuccessful parliamentary acts (notably, the Gin Act) to curtail gin consumption which had risen to 11 million gallons per year! It was the Tippling Act, passed by Parliament in 1751, which finally brought the gin frenzy under control - authorizing only larger, reputable distillers and retailers to distribute gin.  The quality of the spirit improved, as did the price, and annual consumption rapidly decreased to 2 million gallons. Once known as the poor man’s libation, gin rose in status as a “gentleman’s drink”.

Gin is rarely served neat. Tonic water is the yin to gin’s yang. That’s 4 oz of the former and 2 oz of the latter, a couple of ice cubes with a lemon wedge - and CHEERS!

The European approach to wining and dining is to sit back, relax with good company and, above all, slow down.  Every bite of food and sip of drink is savored.  The dining experience begins with drinking what the Italians call an aperitivo - an apéritif - which serves to whet the appetite in anticipation of the many wonderful courses of food to follow.  At the end of the meal, it is customary to linger at the table with a digestivi - or an after-dinner drink.  Typically, it is more potent and much sweeter than the aperitivo.  Can you guess what the Italian digestivi of choice is?  Yes, it’s Sambuca.  However, this digestivi comes with a caveat: Use extreme caution when dealing with fire!

Sambuca hails from the Latin word Sambūc-us, meaning elderberry, one of this clear liqueur’s core ingredients.  It is often erroneously confused with its Greek counterpart, ouzo, which also has that distinct licorice flavor from star anise.  Although it can be enjoyed straight up or on the rocks, the traditional (and adventurous) way to drink Sambuca is by setting it on fire - literally! The traditional Flaming Sambuca is prepared by placing 3 coffee beans in a shot or liqueur glass, adding 1 oz. of Sambuca, then lighting it, waiting 10 seconds before extinguishing the flame by placing the palm of your hand over the glass.  If you wait too long before putting the flame out, you may be making a trip to the local Emergency room. Additionally, if the glass tips over, you may set your tablecloth on fire!  Don’t laugh, it’s happened! (So don’t forget to keep a fire extinguisher handy. Always use extreme caution).

And the 3 coffee beans floating on top?  Well, here’s to your health, happiness and prosperity. Salute!

(Image courtesy of Wikipedia)

Absinthe.  The very name seduces the imagination. In literature, it was called “la fée verte” (the Green Fairy), because of its brilliant green color that came from the chlorophyll in the herbs during distillation. Not to be confused with a liqueur, this extremely potent spirit (50% - 89.9% ABV) contains no sugar.  It’s a licorice-flavored concoction of herbs like star anise, hyssop, fennel, and, most significantly, “artemsia absinthium” (Grande Wormwood).  Traditionally, one ounce of Absinthe is poured, a sugar cube placed on a slotted spoon laid on top of the glass. Ice cold water is poured over the sugar cube and into the glass, evenly diluting the drink.  Absinthe is also a popular cocktail ingredient.

In ancient times, non-distilled Absinthe was used as a medical remedy for stomach and liver maladies. In its distilled form, Absinthe gained popularity among the bohemian upper class; poets, artists, writers and intellectuals in 19^th century Europe.  From Vincent van Gogh to Oscar Wilde and Edgar Allen Poe, this bitter alcoholic beverage - and it’s purported mind-altering effects - was consumed voraciously.  Absinthe aficionados would gather in cafés and bistros at 5:00 pm or “l’heure verte” (the green hour).

Absinthe became a smash hit in our very own Paris - New Orleans. The Old Absinthe House in the historic French Quarter has welcomed famous patrons like Hemingway and Sinatra.  Widely abused, the spirit was banned in most countries during the early 20^th century.  However, studies show that its adverse effects, such as seizures, were not due to Absinthe itself but the consumption of pure wormwood oil.  A century later, the ban has been lifted and Absinthe is considered safe to drink- in moderation!

Vivre la Fée Verte!

Argentina would rather keep most of the wine they produce for themselves. The next time you question your personal wine consumption remember this- Argentina ranks 10th in the world for personal consumption while the US ranks 60th. Cheers!

America is in a major love affair with Malbec and the many expressions of  the grape the winemaker can coax out of the varietal. Brought to Argentina in the 1860’s by French agriculturalists Michel Pouget, the pre- phylloxera Malbec took well to the hot sun and heat it needed to fully ripen. Malbec prefers the temperature differences of the hot days and cool nights the mountain elevation can offer. 75% of the vines are planted in Mendoza.  (Lujan de Cuyo area  is DOC and helped put Argentina on the wine world’s radar.)Argentina sees very little rainfall(maybe 8in)annually. Water from melted snow from the Andes Mountains can cause problem flooding in the vineyards.

The different vineyard elevations is one of the main ingredients to the diversity of Malbec styles. A difference of 2300-4600 ft and dry mountain air can produce a more intense style of wine the higher up the mountain you go. Older vines struggle to produce more concentrated berries having lower yields.. Many diseases do not live well in the thin air.

There are over 1000 winerys in  Argentina producing a variety of wines.  Malbec is the darling of the dance.  The sweet, fleshy fruit can be robust and full of flavors such as blueberry, raspberry, dark cherry, cinnamon, spice, clove and mocha. Most with supple tannins and bright fresh acidity. Malbec comes at all price points from many producers. Consistent value and just plain old fun for your money, as well as structure, complexity and elegance can be found in Malbec.

Of course the other camp says that Malbec is becoming the bargain Cabernet of California-uniform, nondescript, indistinguishable, cookie cutter wine. That can happen to any wine anywhere. So far we have found quite a few good to excellent bargains for our shelves at Mo’s.

The Arizu family has been farming and making wine in Argentina for four generations. Vineyard sites are in Mendoza,  Maipo and Lujan de Cuyo. Over 410,000 cases and 3 different labels in production in over 50 countries. 40 % of their Luigi Bosca label of wines are exported.  The Arizu family calls themselves a “winemaking firm” since all of the family members are involved in the winemaking process.   Trying to keep the wines balanced, elegant and true to the expression of the Malbec grape are the primary focus of the Arizu family and the wines they produce.

Malbec is an exciting  new wine face for many wine drinkers. A new addition  for your drinking repertoire.   Malbec is making old friends almost every time a glass is poured. Move over nice dog….

Cheers, Sharon

Ouzo, as many Greeks will gleefully point out, is the elixir of the gods. Don’t let the taste of licorice fool you – this potent, anise-flavored Greek aperitif has been known to transform the shy, two-left-footer into a gregarious, hip-swaying dancer! Ouzo derives its name from the customs term glouzo, meaning “for use.” In earlier days, the non-distilled version was known as raki. Although believed to have originated during the Byzantine Empire, ouzo distillation and production began in earnest during the 19^th century, in celebration of Greek Independence. Credited for being its birthplace, the Island of Lesvos was and still is a major producer of ouzo.

Ouzo is made from pressed grapes with added herbs like coriander, cloves or cinnamon and its unmistakable smell comes from the key ingredient: star anise. Although a clear liquid, ouzo becomes opaque when water is added. Chilled and served as an aperitif or after-dinner drink, ouzo may be enjoyed straight up or with ice. The true ouzo connoisseur will sip it slowly and nibble on some accompanying mezethes (appetizers), like simple bread and hummus or mouthwatering Melitzanokeftedes (Aubergine Croquettes).

In Greece, people frequent their local ouzeri, where ouzo is the drink of choice and mezes are the delicacies which balance the spirit’s potency. And if you’re not an ouzo purist, you might want to try mixing one of many unique ouzo drink renditions, like the Zorbatini Cocktail Recipe which combines ¼ oz of ouzo with 1 ½ oz of your favorite vodka and an olive for garnish.

Indeed, it was Zorba, who epitomized the Greek philosophy of celebrating life with exuberance, passion, good food, thirst-quenching libations, and, above all, good company. OPA!

Frommers, a leading tourist guide, has rated the American Whiskey Trail as one of the top 13 international and domestic travel destinations in the US for 2009. Rated by travel editors and authors, Frommers picked the American Whiskey Trail “…because it highlights a fascinating but often overlooked part of U.S. history… (several) points along the trail make prime destinations in some of the most charming parts of the country.”

The American Whiskey Trail highlights the role that distilled spirits have played in American history, starting in Colonial times, to the Whiskey Rebellion and through Prohibition. The most popular destination on the American Whiskey Trail may be George Washington’s Mount Vernon distillery.

George Washington was our country’s first large distiller, although that’s rarely taught in school textbooks. Yes, THAT George Washington – the Father of our Country, Revolutionary War Hero and First President – was one of the largest commercial producers of rye whiskey after he left office. Today Mount Vernon distillery is the only site in North America that demonstrates 18th-century distilling from seed to barrel.

George Washington and his troops march to suppress the Whiskey Rebellion
(Image courtesy of Wikipedia)

Over 56.7 million International visitors traveled to the U.S. in 2007, (the last year government numbers are available) and spent a record-breaking $122.7 billion on American tourist destinations.  This year, many will journey the Whiskey Trail right into the history of America. Remember that Bourbon is the official spirit of the United States by act of Congress!

So whether it’s bourbon whiskey, Tennessee whiskey, rye whiskey, blended whiskey, corn whiskey or even moonshine whiskey, spirits play a fascinating role in our nation’s history as well as society today.

It’s always something. Over the past 10 years we have seen alcohol levels in wine rise from 11-12% up to the present day 14-16%.  Winemakers say the public want and have asked for this high octane super ripe style of finished product. The winemakers need the wine gurus approval yet they  they need us to buy their wines. Half the people I meet don’t like what the new wines have become. Besides, most of the wine drinking public wouldn’t know a wine guru if they fell over one.

Letting the grapes become overly ripe before winemaking helps drive the alcohol levels through the roof. Years ago, you could “water down” your wine if the alcohol level was high. Watery and thin wines were the outcome. This prat ice is now illegal. Many argue that food cannot be paired properly with the superstructure wines.  Others argue that the age ability factor is lessened with wines high in alcohol. There have been some high octane, Californian cult wines that did not fare as well as expected when their bottles were opened after an extended cellaring period. De-alc wines are more prone to bacteria and yeast outbreak. Volatile acidity is  the kryptonite of  wine made  from overripe grapes or adjusted juice. Hmm…

Enter Vinovation and Conetech. Two companies that have applications to “adjust alcohol” from wine. A portion of wine is removed from the large batch and treated, either by reverse osmosis, or vacuum distillation with a spinning cone. Th de-alc wine then joins the bigger batch and Voila! lower alcohol numbers register! The innovators of both treatments reassure us there is nothing wrong with this process and it does not interfere with the flavors of the wine. in fact, many winemakers use reverse osmosis when fermentation is stuck. De-alc wine is even good for weight watching and social responsibility- just check the website!

The  ORIGINAL reason the de-alc process is used by winemakers is to reduce their tax burden.The TTB  and federal regulation states that wines with an ABV of under 14.1 are taxed 1.07$ a gallon .  Wines over 14.1 are taxed 1.57$ a gallon. This is not carved in stone, which is why your ABV on the bottle can vary 1.5% on wines under 14.1 and 1% on wines over 14.1. Conetech and Vinovation are under contract to not divulge who their clients are. Some winerys like Rudd and Frogs Leap have  admitted to using their services.

18 to 20% of all wines produced in California since 2006 have been treated by either Conetech or Vinovation.  Winesecrets acquired Vinovation in 2008. Both companies offer a range of services to the winemaker to enhance and better their product. Screwtops, Tetra paks,Flextanks..things are so much easier today…

Cheers, Sharon

Fans of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are always on the lookout for wine bargains. I make sure to introduce them to the Bourgogne wines of Burgundy, France.

The Bourgogne is one of 26 wine regions  of France and has its own appellation, Appellation Bourgogne Controlee’. All 7400 acres and 385 villages of Burgundy are allowed to be used in making Bourgogne wines. (pronounced Burr gon y E) Pinot Noir is used for the red and Chardonnay is used for the white wines.

Bourgogne wines are just a mere glimpse of what the big girls-the Premier Cru and the Grand Cru wines of Burgundy are all about. They are exciting and enjoyable to drink especially after you check out the price of their siblings. When picking a Bourgogne, knowing the producer will help enhance your drinking experience.

A negotiant is someone who might not own his or her own vineyards. They can source throughout Bourgogne or bur grapes or wine to bottle and sell. Producers and growers own their own vineyards and make their own wine. Then they will have select blending options for their Bourgogne wines. Some even use declassified Meursault or Puligny Montrachet juice in their Bourgogne wine. Quality is not sacrificed on the introductory level of their wine.

I have enjoyed Bourgogne level wines for many years. They are wonderful alternative to American Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.  Their poise and grace are always are a pleasing to my palate.  Producers  such as Henri Clerc, Vincent Giradin, Domaine Faivley, Etienne Sauzet and Colin Morey offer an array of wines to dazzle your palate. Their Bourgogne wines are not to be missed.

Cheers, Sharon

Sometimes you do get what you pay for. Many wines are priced in the ten dollar and under range. Everyday values that you take home and similar to your favorite comfort food, you know exactly what to expect from them. Then the unexpected happens, a wine that makes you look up from your wine glass and take notice of what you are drinking.

Every so often a vintage in Bordeaux is considered to be fantastic or the “vintage of our lifetime”. The 2003 vintage is  one of them. When any great Bordeaux vintage is released, the affordable (and high end) wines sell until it is out of stock. Recently at Mo’s we tried the 2003 Chateau Tour Bellevue Bordeaux. Tour Bellevue is the second label wine of Chateau Barreyres Haut-Medoc.

The Tour Bellevue  is 50% Merlot, 50% Cabernet. The little wine has held up nicely. Blackcurrant, cherry , with soft tannins and low acidity make this Bordeaux very easy to enjoy. Most Bordeaux in the same price range are the now the 2005-2007 vintages. The big brother Bordeaux wines will reward you handsomely if you can be patient enough to wait a few (many) years before you drink them. The same is true for some of the little brothers! Now my once empty cup tastes like an excellent value!

Cheers, Sharon